A sign on Tow Hill Road, about five kilometres after you leave the pavement, and well into Naikoon Provincial Park, says “Fresh Bread Ahead.” This is the only warning you’ll get that you are nearing Moon Over Naikoon, one of Haida Gwaii&rsqu

A week before Christmas, I hitched a ride into town to bail out my half-ton from TLC Motors. My truck now had brakes, windshield wipers that didn’t fall off when you switched them on and turn signals. I paid my bill and drove one block up Main Street to the RCMP* detachment to lodge a complaint of police harassment.