The only noise around me was the shuffling of my skis in the fresh snow. And only the moose tracks reminded me of other signs of life. I hadn’t yet seen another human that day. Then, suddenly, a small log cabin appeared around the corner. Surrounded by snow-laden trees, it painted a magical scene. It reminded me of my favourite Scandinavian children’s tale, Ollie’s Ski Trip by Elsa Beskow: a young boy goes to explore the forest on his new skis when he chances upon the palace of King Winter. Ironically, the sign on this hut read “King Hut.”
But in reality I’d reached a provincial warming hut along the Stillwater skiing trail, on the edge of Wells Gray Provincial Park, deep in British Columbia’s interior. The hut was well-appointed, complete with a wood stove and chopped firewood.
In an enormous province, Wells Gray is one of the largest provincial parks. So of course, there’s tons to do — especially in summer: canoeing, hiking, wildlife viewing, wildflower walks, waterfall watching. But few venture into the 540,000 hec (1,334,369 ac) of forests and mountains in winter. Andrew Nelson, owner and manager of Helmcken Falls Lodge, is keen to change this. Three years ago, Nelson brought his family of four from a hectic life in London, England to the serenity of the Clearwater valley. When he bought the lodge, only a handful people visited in winter. But within a few years, he’s quadrupled the number to 500. Setting 35 km (22 mi) of classic ski and snowshoe trails by snowmobile every winter certainly helps. This winter, Nelson also added a 12-km (7.5-mi) skate-ski ski in, ski out trail.
“Most people who come to ski the set tracks can’t believe that they usually have the trails to themselves,” says Nelson, 49. “In most places where tracks are set, you’ll automatically get a crowd. But here, you’re in the wilderness.” A couple of warming huts along the way supply comfort. Back at his historic 1948 hunting lodge, Nelson’s family gives skiers hearty meals and cozy rooms.
Visitors can also sign up for a backcountry hut-to-hut skiing tours with a nearby outfitter. There are snowmobile and dogsledding tours, too. There are several majestic waterfalls nearby, including the 75-m (246-ft) tall Helmcken Falls, which develops a spectacular ice cone at its base as winter progresses.
Nelson has created several winter specials to entice newbies to give the park a try in winter. “Right now,” he says, “Wells Gray tends to be a whistle stop for people on their way to or from the Rockies. But once they’ve been here, most are disappointed that they didn’t stay longer.”
I never did meet King Winter on my ski trip that day, but I did discover my own BC X-C fairy tale.
www.wellsgraycountry.ca
www.helmckenfalls.com
www.sovereignlake.com
www.skisilverstar.com
www.canadatrails.ca/xc_ski/xc_bc.html
www.hellobc.com