To get a real taste of the local scene, I look for joints that have been around a while—and show it. You know, hometown bars with peanuts on the floor, sticky chairs and no elbow room. Character bars with strange art. Or flat-out dives where live music still matters and the locals keep it on the down low. Here are a few of my old (and new) favourites:
Economy Shoe Shop, Halifax, NS
First off, the Economy Shoe Shop is no discount dive. “The Shoe,” as it’s sometimes known, is European-inspired; not in the ooh-la-la kind of way, but more as arts-meets-pleasure. While the crowd may come for live jazz, chances are folks are also snacking on a plate of chicken nachos. Burgers, beer, mussels, music—it’s all on the menu. But “Shop” early, because the place is packed on weekends.
Le Bifteck, Montréal, QC
When I was a student at McGill University, we came here to soak up the grunge vibe, scarf down some cheap beer and dine on free popcorn. Part watering hole, part celebration of sleaze, this Montréal legend is still filled with poets, students and locals who love to tell stories. It’s laid-back and a tight fit when you stumble in after your late-night club crawl. Try the Windex shooters!
The Railway Club, Vancouver, BC
It’s not about the beer, it’s about the live music, dude. A no-BS attitude, great beers on tap, and true-grit local musicians give the Railway a vintage feel. Come in jeans, a feather boa, or novelty T-shirt—it’s all welcome here. Depending on the night, you might hear rock, punk, swing or jazz, or some crazy mash-up. Not bad for a 70-year-old joint.
Black Dog Freehouse, Edmonton, AB
How could you not love a bar with a “Wooftop patio”? The three-level English-style pub has been barking up a storm on Whyte Ave. for years. Imagine a long bar, indie music, college kids mingling with middle-age regulars. Beer is the favoured beverage here, make no mistake. So settle into a cozy couch at the chill “underdog” in the basement or cruise the lively alternative/indie scene on the main floor. Don’t miss Saturday afternoons for a little “Hair of the Dog,” where musicians drown the souls of tired spectators.
Times Change(d) High and Lonesome Club, Winnipeg, MB
Call it Canada’s honky-tonk on the corner of Main St. in Winnipeg. Two velvet paintings of banditos hang above the stage, giving the place a warm, lived-in feel. Order a bourbon (a house specialty) or go for the “Standard Lager,” a Manitoba original that tastes like Bud. If you’re still there at closing, be sure to try the chicken toss. Visit to figure that one out…
Trapper John’s Pub, St. John’s, NL
St. John’s, capital of Newfoundland and Labrador, is a well-known party town along a two-block thoroughfare known as George St., where you’ll find everything from accordion-heavy traditional Newfoundland music to screaming guitar rock. Trapper John’s is a staple on George, known for its twist on the famous Newfoundland “screeching in” ceremony. Come in to kiss Stubby the Puffin, draw a pint and groove to the live bands.
The Manx, Ottawa, ON
Head below ground and settle into the plush crimson seats of the cozy Manx pub. The bar menu blows away the usual beef-and-beer pubs in most cities. Alongside Shepherd’s Pie and single-malt scotch, there’s crab cakes served with warm curried carrots. Some say the Manx has the best brunch in the city, but you didn’t hear it from me. I’m already fighting for a seat.
Sweaty Betty’s, Toronto, ON
Cheez Whiz on toast with a side of the Sex Pistols? That’s Sweaty Betty’s in a sentence. You want fancy drinks with multiple ingredients? Step outside, please. No room for the cocktail crowd in this “sweat box” featuring a jukebox (think Iggy—not top-40—Pop), sweaty strangers and sarcasm shared liberally among the barkeeps. There’s more room and a nice buzz on the secluded outdoor patio.
Find more great pubs and bars in Canada.
