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The 50-odd grizzly bears that call the Khutzeymateen “home” ignore visitors, like me, who silently float by their world of sedge grass and rocky beaches. In Canada’s only grizzly bear sanctuary, just north of Prince Rupert, BC, pull up a deck chair and watch them play on the beaches until mid August, when they begin following the trail of salmon inland up into creeks and rivers.

* Although you can drive to Prince Rupert, the more spectacular route is by ferry. Take the new, swank Northern Expedition on a 15-hourjourney up the Inside Passage from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert.

* Join Prince Rupert Adventure Tours on a six-hour catamaran ride into the Khutzeymateen Grizzly Bear Sanctuary.

* Prince Rupert, dubbed the halibut capital of the world, has some hippie-dippy clapboard seafood joints like the Cow Bay Cafe, Rain Dining Lounge and Opa’s Japanese sushi joint, that are divinely fresh and inventive. For a thick, bitter cuppa—the kind of joint where plants grow out of old ski boots and The New York Times magazine might be a decade old—head to Cowpuccino’s Coffee House.

www.hellobc.com