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Here’s a happy bit of financial news: New Yorkers fork over $32 US for the famed db Burger, while those of us in Vancouver, BC, can now get the same life-changing concoction of ground top sirloin stuffed with truffle-laced short ribs for a mere $28 CDN.

Opened in December 2008 where the late, great Feenie’s Bistro once stood, next door to the acclaimed Lumière in Vancouver’s beachside neighbourhood of Kitsilano, db Bistro Moderne may be the city’s most anticipated restaurant in years. Under the direction of famed NYC-based restaurateur Daniel Boulud, chef Stephane Istel is winning over die-hard Rob Feenie fans one glorious plate at a time. Even the most health-conscious locals are abandoning their low-carb diets and Lululemon gear to see what all the fuss is about, if only for one night.

In the revamped room (stress on “vamped”), a vibrant clientele finds its groove in a warm, sexy mix of leather banquettes, smoky mirrors and red accents. Clinching the mood are lounge-like lighting and music just soft enough to let the food shine. True to Boulud’s word, traditional French cuisine and NYC flair get a good-natured punch in the arm from BC sensibilities. Steamed Quadra Island, BC mussels meet white-wine velouté, pork tenderloin takes a dip in bacon jus, and handmade venison orecchiette pasta cozies up to chestnuts and butternut squash. Sure to become one of Vancouver’s favourite boîtes, db Bistro Moderne is inventive but comfy, luxe but relaxed, decadent but reasonable. And don’t even get me started on that burger again.
www.hellobc.com