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Hot bites: Canada’s top 10 new restaurants.

The list.

by Michele Sponagle

From surf to turf, these new eateries are adding sizzle to Canada’s blossoming culinary scene. Be forewarned: reading any further will whet your appetite for fabulous food.

  1. Atelier Restaurant, Ottawa, ON. Chef Marc Lepin puts the fun back into fine dining with a non-traditional approach to cooking. His tools of choice include liquid nitrogen and induction burners for creating frozen crab apple spaetzle and icy whipped cream-and-caviar lollipops. In Lepine’s hands, the methodology isn’t gimmickry; it’s delicious. The service is swift, but not rushed, and the kitchen welcomes curious diners to witness its culinary experiments.
  2. Play, Food & Wine, Ottawa, ON. If you’ve ever been paralyzed by indecision about what to order, this restaurant solves the dilemma. On offer: a variety of small plates that showcase a bevy of flavours. Love the wild salmon topped with pesto? Order another. This is the perfect spot to eat with friends. Pile up the table with plates, nibble from this one and that, ‘til your belly is happy. And it’ll be until the final bite of a banana split with pineapple rum sauce.
  3. Mildred’s Temple Kitchen, Toronto, ON. You could almost hear the collective sigh of relief when chef Donna Dooher opened this latest restaurant. The TO dining scene had been in mourning ever since she shut the doors of Mildred Pierce. There’s much to celebrate at her latest venture in Liberty Village. The faves are back, including those impossibly fluffy blueberry pancakes, handmade ricotta gnudi with bacon, and savoury burgers topped with Irish cheddar. Welcome back!
  4. Hank’s Café, Toronto, ON. Here’s positive proof that dining doesn’t need to be fancy to be fabulous. The traditional café is boosted to new levels of yummy, thanks to Jamie Kennedy. You can grab a coffee and a chocolate croissant to go, or sit and relax over a lunch of beer-braised beef stew with root vegetables or a satisfying roast beef sandwich with homemade mayo. By evening, it’s hang-out central with bar snacks and old-school cocktails. Tel. 647-288-0670
  5. Campagnolo, Vancouver, BC. Italian is the ultimate comfort food, so it’s not surprising that diners have flocked to Campagnolo for its casual, affordable fare, from simple thin-crust pizzas and chef Alvin Pillay’s homemade salumi to fresh pastas like tagliarini with pork ragu. You gotta love the 25-seat wine room, perfect for lingering before and after feasting.
  6. Restaurant DNA, Montréal, QC. At home and abroad, there’s been a flood of kudos for chef Derek Dammann, and with good reason. He demonstrates a knack for turning not-so-everyday ingredients (squid and pork belly) into things of beauty. Situated in Old Montréal, this eatery presents world-class cuisine in a homey environment that says to diners, “Sip, savour, stay a while.”
  7. Lot 30, Charlottetown, PEI. Celebrated chef Gordon Bailey gets fresh at his latest eatery. The kitchen doesn’t even have a freezer. That means plenty of surprises, pleasant ones, on a menu that constantly changes according to what’s available. You could be slurping chilled strawberry and peach soup or oysters plucked out of Colville Bay that day. The menu isn’t long, but every item listed is a winner.
  8. Stage, Victoria, BC. Take a trip around the world without leaving this laidback bistro, located in the Fernwood neighbourhood. Chef George Szasz pleases locavores with ingredients sourced on the island (Vancouver Island), but it’s the global accents that give these tapas international appeal. Mussels benefit from a zesty kick of coconut milk, lime and chipotle, while pork belly gets a hearty boost from stewed white beans. Can a tummy smile? Uh huh. Tel. 250-388-4222
  9. The Only on King, London, ON. Southwestern Ontario is coming on strong in culinary circles, thank to a bounty of locally sourced produce, meat and dairy products. Chefs Jason Schubert and Paul Harding tap into those flavours with flair. Lake pickerel, along with sautéed wild leeks, brown butter and capers, is melt-in-your mouth delicious, and the asparagus tart flambé with old cheddar is a flaky, scrumptious delight.
  10. Chef’s Table, Calgary, AB. The open kitchen seduces your taste buds even before the first plate has landed at the table. The seven-course tasting menu is a symphony that builds beautifully until the final note, from Queen Charlotte Island scallops with blood orange foam to sugar-sprinkled doughnuts with vanilla custard. Chef Theo Yeaman honed his skills at top tables in Europe (Fat Duck, for example) and Canada. Now he’s Calgary’s newest culinary star, twinkling brightly with great creative and a penchant for bold flavours.
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We welcome you to use these story ideas as inspiration for your own stories about Canada. The CTC owns all rights worldwide. (Our images are also royalty-free and available for editorial print, broadcast and electronic use.) If you choose to reproduce these texts for editorial use only, please include the author's byline and "courtesy of the Canadian Tourism Commission." If you cut, edit or modify the text in any way, please include this note: "The text has been modified from the original." Thank you.

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Mat Loup
30 November 2009
@ 9:13am

Hi Ron-
Thank you for your comment. I was fortunate to have the task of finding a handful of restaurants that were new and noteworthy. Over the last couple of years, I went coast to coast and sampled the cuisine of a diverse mix of eateries. In fact, you may recall that we met at the Savour Ottawa media event.

Of course, the selections on this list are subjective. I focused on places that were different and stood out in some way. For Ottawa's Atelier, I loved its whimsical approach to dining and its attention to quality. The definition of "new" is not as narrow as some other lists. For example, enRoute's version of new is restaurants that opened over the last year. The ones I chose range from one year to a max of three. I'm always on the hunt for great spots no matter where they are.

All the best,
Michele

[posted on behalf of Michele Sponagle]


Ron Eade
27 November 2009
@ 8:43am

Please, could you tell us more about who prepared this list, who sponsors this list, what the criteria are, how many restaurants Canad-wide were considered, what timeframe qualifies as "new?" Just hungry (excuse the pun) for more details.
Regards, Ron Eade, Food editor, Ottawa Citizen
reade@thecitizen.canwest.com


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